What You Need to Know about Trousers

So, a friend of mine is making the leap into his first post-collegiate corporate job, and he asked for a little help in revamping his wardrobe and learning how to make good choices. So, I'm setting out to help him, and I'm hoping to be able to learn and teach myself and everyone else along the way. So, here's part one: Pants.

They cover your private square and keep your legs warm. But there is a lot more to trousers than putting them on one leg at a time. First, a bit of an anatomy lesson.

The rise of a pant is how high it sits on the waist, so that's the length between the waistband and the crotch. If a rise is too high, it makes the pants come up too high on the torso and shortens the abdomen, making the wearer look shorter and more squat. Otherwise, a high rise will hit properly on the waist and then the crotch will hang too low, and one will look like a hip-hop artist from the early 1990s. On the other end of the spectrum, a rise that is too low is a sin against humanity akin to clubbing baby seals. A low rise says either "this is how we wear 'em in the pen" or else "I'm waiting for Abercrombie to call me back" (I actually do blame Abercrombie for some of the low-rise craze, as a few years back they were advertising denim with rises so low that the world was suddenly privy to the models' crotchal curls). Nevertheless, the rise is important, and in my recommendations, I'll explain how to get it right.

The break of a trouser has to do with the way that the leg of the trouser falls on the shoe. This is initially indicated by the inseam length if buying off the rack, so the appropriate size should be located. The break will already be in tact, but it is one of the most easily altered points on a trouser, and gentlemen usually have their trousers hemmed or let out as necessary. That said, there are a few options when it comes to breaking down the break. As best I can tell, "break" is in reference to how the trouser leg breaks away from the shoe when walking, and a bit of sock is shown. Anyhow, the full break is when the hem of the pant mostly covers the heel of the shoe. This can be tricky, because no one wants to look like he is standing in a puddle of fabric. No break is when the trouser leg just hits the top of the shoe. This is a much more trendy cut, and it is mostly worn by Europeans (and their new world pretenders) who are bold in their style choices. I do not discount this, but it is not especially flattering for my body (I'd look like I was expecting a flood). A medium break is one that covers about half-way down the heel. This is the safest bet, at least while one is figuring out what looks best on his body. A pair of trousers can be tailored, and the standard break is about 1/2 in. down the heel.

Cuffs and pleats are among the finer choices to be made, and they work together. A trouser with pleats may or may not have cuffs, depending on the wearer's preference. A trouser without pleats does not have cuffs. The only real problem here is that cuffs provide extra weight to the pants legs and let them fall more smoothly. Without the weight of the cuffs, the trousers may be more apt to flap about a bit. That being said, pleats are a point of contention. Modern trends (and I agree) say that pleats are, indeed, the devil. They create bulk around the waist and can be awkwardly blousey in the front. The most a trouser should ever have is a single pleat, and this helps to create a crease down the leg line. However, a flat front is perfectly acceptable. It is slimming, and it helps create a sleek silhouette.

A trouser's legs should be cut close to the body without being tight. This creates the illusion of height and slenderness when worn properly. There should not be a taper in toward the ankle. Trousers should stay close to the leg, but after the knee, there is a little leeway so that they do not create an upside down triangle. This doesn't flatter anyone, as it heightens an appearance of bulk about the midsection and unbalances the figure.

Those are the basics, so here is a general list of trouser suggestions:
-The rise of the pants should hit between the navel and the hips, at the natural waist.
-A medium break is best until a style is determined.Talk to the tailors. Most larger department stores have tailors in-house, and it is not difficult to find tailors in the community. Minor alterations are generally not expensive, and since we are looking at more business-oriented clothes, this is an investment in looking professional.
-Flat front pants, no cuffs. Keep the lines long, lean, and simple. There should not be a taper in toward the ankle.
-Fabrics are one of the places where individual style is expressed. Most suit trousers are made of a lightweight wool, and these come in every shade of black, grey, blue, etc. There are also summer weight fabrics such as linen, cotton, and linen/cotton blends that are perfectly office appropriate. Beware that these lighter fabrics are more prone to wrinkling. In the winter, heavier wools are easy to find, such as tweed and the like. For less formal office situations, cotton khaki-weight trousers are acceptable, as are corduroy during the winter.

So, friends, this is my layman's overview of trousers. There are more to come eventually as we cover the basics of a wardrobe. Any questions?

T